If bespoke cocktails are your jam, listen up: La Ruina has unveiled a lavish new upstairs bar suited to those tastes, and it’s open now. When news broke that Modernist owners Olaf Harmel and Gerry Shirley had left the bespoke cocktail-focused drinkery — that is, a bar that doesn’t necessarily have a set menu, but instead allows bartenders to create drinks based on what the patron says they enjoy — locals were dismayed.