San Antonio’s Panifico Bake Shop and Estate Coffee made national news this week in a Los Angeles Times article praising that humble panadería  staple the concha and its status as a symbol of Mexican American identity. In a piece carried by De Los, which the Times describes as its “Latinidad community-driven platform,” writer JP Brammer describes the iconic pastry in detail, noting its “fluffy, brioche-like bun topped with colorful, crumbly seashell designs [that have] attracted quite the cult following.” The author also waxes with rosy retrospection on trips to the neighborhood panadería as a child.